Every respectable international jet-setter has a number of preferred perches, perks, and pals in the seaside Mediterranean principality of Monaco. Although Somerset Maugham once called it "a sunny place for shady people," most multinational execs now refer to the 485-acre nation as "Monaco, Inc.," due to its prospering (and, yes, still sometimes shady) business and tax environment.
Contemporary Monaco-a Disneyland-like mélange of cobblestone streets, high-rise residences, and lavish hotels, a tabloid-covered royal family, and a population of about 30,000-has been synonymous with glitter, glamour, and gambling since the first casino opened in 1863. It won even greater cachet when Prince Rainier III, who's been in charge since 1949, married American actress Grace Kelly in 1956. In other words, Atlantic City it's not.
One reason residents and visitors-from would-be James Bonds to high rollers from Riyadh, Tokyo, and Texas-feel at home is the tight security, which includes 24-hour video surveillance of the entire city of Monte Carlo, and a modern, ruthlessly efficient police force. Thus, dowagers and dot-com millionaires alike can leave their cars unlocked and wear real jewelry out on the town.
But even if you haven't banked that first million yet, it's not too difficult to look opulent, especially since the strong dollar has made Monaco more manageable this year. Some tips from the locals on living the good life:
Arriving in Style
The slick way to show up in Monaco, and immediately move into money-is-no-object mode, is via helicopter from the Nice-Côte d'Azur International Airport. The Calandres rental-car agency will greet you at the principality's seaside heliport with a snazzy Porsche convertible or Ferrari ("Or we can meet your private plane at any time of day or night," offers Calandres sales manager Martin Marschner). The right set of wheels will ensure that you get the appropriate treatment from the hotel and casino doormen. And you can even take a spin along the coast or in the nearby French hills to relive scenes from To Catch a Thief. Meanwhile, Grand Prix aficionados should drop in on the Formula One Ferrari Shop, which offers all the automotive accoutrements you'll never need but won't be able to live without.
Details: Heli Air Voyages, 011-377-92-05-00-10, www.heliair-monaco.com. Cost for a one-way flight: $55. Calandres rental cars, 011-377-93-50-25-25, www.calandres.com. One-day rental of a Ferrari 550, which includes 200 "free" kilometers, is $1,349 plus a $16,603 guarantee. Formula One Ferrari Shop, 13, rue Grimaldi.
On the Waterfront
There are many public beaches and swimming pools in Monaco, but that's not how to attack sunbathing here. Instead, rent a private tent-complete with a chest of drawers, lounge chairs, and a table-at the Monte-Carlo Beach (which is actually located just across the "invisible" border in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France). That way you can suntan next to Princess Stephanie, photographer Helmut Newton, or some similar bronzed icon. The beach is adjacent to the saltwater swimming pool at the Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel, which has 54 rooms with terraces and sea views. The setting is so perfect that it's tough to quibble with the brochure's description of "luxury, calm, and sensual pleasure in endless sunshine."
Details: Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel, 011-33-4-93-28-66-66. A "front row" tent rents for $127 per day. A single room at the hotel starts at $216.
Luxury by Night
The Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and Rolls-Royces parked outside the legendary and celebrated Hôtel de Paris in Monte Carlo's Place du Casino set the decorative flavor for the 135 rooms, 19 junior apartments, and 43 suites affording views of the sea, port, palace, city, and casino. Michael Jackson and Prince, bien sûr, tend to stay in the Churchill Suite, which goes for $2,075 a night. But don't fret: Most rooms are much less expensive and each has enough charm to convey an appropriate aura of luxury. Note: For good luck, cognoscenti religiously rub the right foot of the bronze horse carrying Louis XIV as they enter the lobby of the hotel.
Details: Hôtel de Paris, 011-377-92-16-30-00, www.montecarloresort.com. Singles start at $278, doubles at $309, and a junior suite at $513.
Eating at Alain's
There's no gambling required when it comes to finding the best table in Monaco. Le Louis XV, the restaurant run by legendary chef Alain Ducasse in the Hôtel de Paris, wins hands down. To sample the fare without going broke, order one of the two prix fixe menus, which change daily and feature Ducasse specialties like breast of pigeon and Provençal vegetables with black truffles. Before ordering your wine, show off your knowledge to chief sommelier Noel Bajor by asking for an obscure mineral water, like Chateldon. Once your credentials are established, he'll be happy to let you buy a bottle of 1937 Château d'Yquem, one of 990 wines on the restaurant's exhaustive list, for $3,554.
Meanwhile, the "in" informal dining scene is focused on a sprawling sports bar and club called Stars 'N' Bars, located in a revamped industrial neighborhood. Co-founded by Kate Powers, a St. Louis native raised in Monaco, it serves down-home hamburgers, tacos, and ribs (a burger or Reuben sandwich each costs about $10), and its nightclub is a de rigueur late-night stop. Other new and acclaimed restaurants include Le Vistamar in the Hermitage Hôtel and the Bar & Boeuf, also run by Alain Ducasse, at the Summer Sporting Club. Favorite standbys are the Café de Paris and Rampoldi's.
Details: Le Louis XV, 011-377-92-16-30-01. The set-price menus go for $134. There is also a $68 business menu available at lunchtime. Stars 'N' Bars, 6, Quai Antoine 1er, 011-377-97-97-95-95.
The Grand Ball
Monte Carlo's two most regal charity events are the summertime Red Cross Ball (a ticket this year ran $820, including champagne) and the springtime Rose Ball (only $752). The Rose Ball, presided over by Princess Caroline, raises funds for the World Association for Children. The Red Cross Ball, as the name implies, benefits the Monegasque Red Cross. "I feel much more motivated and concerned by the Red Cross Ball than most other official black-tie events in Monaco," enthuses Prince Albert, president of the organization, the ruling-prince-in-waiting, and one of Europe's most eligible bachelors. "I even choose the menu. If the food's no good, it's my fault."
Details: For dates and tickets contact La Société des Bains de Mer, Place du Casino, 011-377-92-16-88-10, www.montecarloresort.com.
Monte Carlo's Hottest Club
Try not to take it personally if you're turned away by the polite but firm doorman at Jimmy'z discotheque in Monaco. The private club, which opened in 1974 and was completely remodeled last year, has never been a big promoter of equality. "We are the most exclusive disco club in the world and definitely a place for the elite," says Jimmy'z general manager Frank Fiorito, almost humbly. It's true, though, that the club never lacks for jet-setters, top athletes, models, and celebrities among its 300 nightly clients who don't mind spending $34 for a cocktail. (Mercifully, there's no cover charge.)
One reason the doorman might not let you in, according to Fiorito, is that you're not a known client. But it's just as likely that you simply may not look the way a Jimmy'z customer is supposed to look. For lack of a better expression, that look is bon chic, bon genre-the trendy French phrase that denotes the right combination of money, looks, clothes, and demeanor. However, one sure way to get into Jimmy'z is to have the concierge at the Hôtel de Paris make a reservation for you. Do that and the doorman will park your Ferrari, and you can enjoy the cigar-smoking salon that came with the recent renovations.
Details: Jimmy'z is located at the Summer Sporting Club, and opens at 11:30 p.m., 011-377-92-16-22-77.
A Site for Sore Muscles
Living the good life can be hard work. Fortunately there's a four-story seaside complex called Les Thermes Marins de Monte-Carlo to ease the suffering. The glass-enclosed spa is based on the centuries-old practice of thalassotherapy (thalassa is Greek for "sea") and employs mineral-rich ingredients like seaweed and sea mud to promote healing and relaxation. Opened in 1995, the center boasts a 100-member staff and the latest in high-tech pulsating, vibrating, spraying, and bathing equipment.
Details: Les Thermes Marins de Monte-Carlo, Centre de Thalassothérapie, 2, avenue de Monte-Carlo, 011-377-92-16-40-40, www.montecarloresort.com. A day at the spa with four marine treatments costs $101; many hotels offer packages at the spa.
Wager at Your Private Table
Monte Carlo's ornate Belle Epoque casino is an architectural delight whose marble columns, decorative murals, cabaret, and opera attract a million tourists a year. The best way to find refuge from sightseers as you try your hand at roulette, baccarat, or blackjack is to ask (and anyone can ask) to play in one of the three "super" salons privés. The betting there starts at a comparatively manageable $28, though the action usually edges toward the top bet of approximately $42,000 for baccarat, $14,000 for blackjack, and $3,000 for roulette. But don't let the seductive surroundings fool you: There was a song entitled "The Man Who Broke the Bank at Monte-Carlo," but no one has ever actually taken the casino to the cleaners.
Details: Admission to the casino is $7 (free with a "gold card" available to guests of the Hôtel de Paris). NB: Men need a coat and tie, and everybody needs a passport, to get into the casino in the evening.
Dress to Kill
American tourists, as well as some local Formula One drivers, frequently stroll around in shorts in the summer and khakis in the winter. But that's definitely not the way to be à la mode in Monte Carlo. Black tie is essential for most gala events, and isn't necessarily out of place anywhere but the beach. Women visiting Monaco often purchase a new gown for a night on the town (don't worry, there's no shortage of designer boutiques); men might want to rent a tuxedo from Jacques Bourdin, who runs the only tux-rental operation in the country. If you're in a hurry, Bourdin will come to your hotel room to take measurements before delivering a standard tux ("Everyone goes dancing at Jimmy'z, and there's too much wear and tear to rent anything too soft or special," he laments). He"ll also pick it up the next morning. Assuming, that is, you"re home by then.
Details: Jacques Bourdin, 5, rue Princess Caroline, 377-93-30-49-22. Rental of a tuxedo, shirt, tie, and cummerbund will run $116, plus a $415 deposit.
