The Great Fancy Booze Revolution commenced about 20 years ago in America with the single-malt Scotch fad. Oh, there had been upscale whiskey here before (Chivas, Johnnie Black), but the single-malts established a new ultra-tony-and ultra-pricey-liquor class. Soon they were joined by boutique vodkas with northern European accents, small-batch bourbons, swank tequilas, and $50-a-bottle rums (hold the Coke ...).
Now, late but not least, the mother of all spirits-Irish whiskey-is glug-glug-glugging its way into the upper crust.
It's about time, considering how long Ireland's been in the whiskey business. Some say Saint Patrick himself introduced the stuff to Dublin and its environs back in the late fifth century. The very word whiskey (with an e in Ireland and the U.S., no e in Scotland and Canada) comes to us from the Gaelic uisce beathadh, which means "water of life." How much more elemental can you get?
While single-malt Scotch is defined by its peat-driven smokiness and small-batch bourbon by its corn-born sweetness, fine Irish whiskey has its own clean, fresh taste-sometimes with hints of toffee, caramel, or vanilla, sometimes a little floral-and a soft, smooth finish.
If connoisseurship is your thing, you'll want to know that Irish whiskey gets its freshness from the smoke-free heat used to dry the malted barley (a key ingredient); that it's distilled three times (Scotch is usually distilled twice); and that its flavors are imparted by aging the product in oak barrels once used to hold port, sherry, bourbon, or some combination of the three. Then again, if you simply choose to accept your good fortune as a gift from Saint Patrick and not clutter your mind with whiskey esoterica . . . well, cheers. Here, a guide to the best of the best.
THE KINGS OF CORK
Jameson 1780 Reserve, $35
Blended, 12 years old. Complex, deep, mellow. Hints of citrus, apple, and wild honey. Clean finish on the tongue.
Bushmills Black Bush, $35
A rich, malty blend with a smooth, light caramel bass note. Great for after dinner.
Connemara, $56
The exception to the Irish rule-a single-malt with a smoky, peaty aroma, as well as suggestions of oloroso sherry and tar. The Cask Strength (120 proof) was a Gold Medalist at the 2000 London International Wine and Spirits Competition.
Knappogue Castle 1990, $45
Gently herbal, with a hint of honey. Soft in the mouth. Subtly complex.
Bushmills 16, $70
Single-malt, 16 years old. Complex and assertive. Matured in three different "woods" (bourbon, sherry, and port barrels). Close your eyes, sip slowly, and enjoy all three.
Redbreast Pot Still, $35
Hard to find, but well worth the search. Hell, worth going to Ireland for. Crisp, floral nose. Long, mellow finish. Just might be the best whiskey in the world.
Midleton Very Rare, $125
Blends the taste of almonds, fruits, honey, and spice for a smooth, velvety finish. Only if you really, really want to impress your boss.
