I sit amid rustic splendor on an island hilltop set in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. From the town below, the breeze carries the clanking of sheep bells and the scent of a wood-burning stove. Behind me stands Gran Hotel Son Net, a 17th-century manor house that's now a proud, polished five-star resort with an almost embarrassing array of modern spa amenities. This is Mallorca-stunning backdrop to both the glamorous lives of the jet set and the dignified agrarian existence of the locals. Here, you can live like a simple shepherd or join the glitterati for a taste of the good life. Or do both, on the same day.
Unlike other places that host both haves and have-nots, Mallorca has a natural harmony. The largest of Spain's Balearic Islands, located 120 miles off the coast of Barcelona, Mallorca is home to 709,000, more than a third of whom live in its palm-studded capital, Palma. Sculpted around the banks of a huge bay, Palma de Mallorca manages to remain picturesque despite its size. In large part it owes its beauty to the Mediterranean, which makes its sparkling presence known around nearly every corner. As you face away from the water, you'll find the best shopping in the district is to the west, where portico-lined streets offer a mix of international chains and small shops displaying Spain's fine leatherwork as well as the island's famed Majorica pearls. If you head east, you'll quickly wind up at the doorstep of the city's magnificent Gothic cathedral with its soaring buttresses. Perched next to the crowded azure harbor, the building seems to float on the water.
To get a feel for traditional Mallorca, you need to rent a car and explore the interior-its rolling tree-blanketed hills, spectacular cliffs, and terraced towns such as Valldemossa. Here, centuries of farming have transformed an entire village into a garden. Brown stone walls, deeply weathered and green with moss, turn steep terrain into farmland that bursts with spring color. There's nothing to do but pick a spot, either by the side of the road or at a café, and appreciate the marriage of man-made and natural beauties, watching the clouds drift by in your wine glass. If you head for Cap de Formentor, on Mallorca's northeast corner, where barren cliffs plunge dramatically into the sea, you'll drive directly through the heart of the island, past yellow fields, groves of gnarled olive trees, and towns often stretching little more than a block or two.
Of course, you can also view the water from closer to sea level. Yachting is one of Mallorca's most famous pursuits, and the rocky coast boasts several world-class harbors including Pollença, Andratx, and Soller. Charter companies based at each offer speedboats, sailboats, and catamarans, and can easily arrange adventures that last from a few hours to several days. Some trips circle the island, providing glimpses of cliffs and caves, while others head out to sister islands Menorca and Ibiza, 27 and 47 miles away, respectively. Andratx is closest to Palma, and will entice you with a variety of restaurants and nightclubs. It's the kind of place where you just might find yourself seated near a captain of industry or maybe dancing with-or in relative proximity to-a movie star or supermodel. Or, at the very least, someone who cares deeply about such things.
If stargazing's your game, nothing on Mallorca tops Abacanto, one of the world's poshest bars, just outside Palma. The decor, highlighted by an endless profusion of fresh flowers, is spectacular, at once homey and elegant, featuring a roaring fire, a view of the garden and aviary, and book-lined walls. Each room, painted in intense, bright colors, spills into the next through large, open doors; the effect is like that of an intimate cocktail party for a hundred strangers. Come rub elbows with the well-heeled and down high-priced drinks, then spend the next day napping off the night's excesses on a hillside, looking over a sleepy valley, taking in messages brought by the breeze.
